Banff, Jasper, Yoho, Glacier and Revelstoke National Parks

Itinerary At-A-Glance

Location: Canadian Rockies — Alberta and BC, CANADA
Timeline: Tuesday, Aug. 6th – Wednesday, Aug. 14th, 2024

The Canadian Rockies experience their best hiking weather from mid-July through mid-September; August is the height of the season. I’ve skied Banff and Revelstoke in March, but summer is when these crown jewels of Canada are at their most majestic. Fortunately, my hiking buddy, George, felt similarly and was up for an epic adventure. We flew out of Boston through Toronto and into Calgary, from which we could quickly access 5 national parks on our week-long itinerary.

The Canadian Rockies are home to 7 national parks, of which 6 are within an hour’s drive of another, something you won’t find anywhere else in North America. George and I visited all but Kootenay and Waterton NP. (Fortunately, I had hiked Kootenay in mid-winter with my wife earlier this year. Waterton will be the impetus for a future trip!) We found these grand and majestic mountains offer scenic beauty on a scale we have not found elsewhere on this continent.

I hope this itinerary is useful toward your planning and enjoyment of these incredible Canadian national parks.

Carpe diem.

What’s Special About Banff NP

Canada’s first national park is a beauty and is considered by many to be the best of the best of the Parks Canada system. There are so many great ways to enjoy this park – whether it be short hikes or longer day hikes; whether it be visiting the very popular town of Banff or indulging in the more exclusive properties at Lake Louise; whether it be backpacking deep into the glaciated range of mountains or enjoying their grandeur on a drive up the Icefield Parkway. It is all here for you!

Scenic Drives: The extensive stretches along the Trans-Canada Highway from Canmore through Banff and Lake Louise, as well as the Icefield Parkway from Lake Louise, are justifiably world famous.

Hiking: George and I decided to focus on long day hikes that would take us to see lakes and glaciers. Banff NP is said to boast over 1000 glaciers, large and small. The Lake Louise area offers the best of the longer day hikes from the trailheads at the namesake lake and from Moraine Lake. The Plain of Six Glaciers/Lake Agnes Circuit emanating from Lake Louise enabled us to see beautiful lakes up close and many glaciers from a distance. A delightful benefit was the opportunity to lunch at one of the two teahouses located along the circuit. The Larch Valley/Sentinel Pass/Paradise Valley hike provided awesome panoramic views of lakes and glaciers – and a very steep descent down a challenging scree-field.

Essential Hiking Tips: Bear spray. Buy it, learn how to use it, and carry it where you can quickly grab it. This advice applies to all the Canadian NPs in the Rockies. Also, trailhead parking fills very early so consider making advance reservations with the local bus services; these book up early, too. Notably, the bus is the only way to get to Moraine Lake. And finally, when visiting any national park, I highly recommend doing regular check-ins with the local park rangers and the visitors centers. These trail updates are essential to experiencing the best hiking options.

Via Ferrata: Mt. Norquay is one of the few places that offer this activity. It is great fun and only moderately scary for those who aren’t acrophobic.

Hot Springs: Banff NP was originally created for the hot springs. An hour-long soak does wonders for the muscles and joints, but expect to be joined in the pool by at least a hundred of your closest spa soulmates. Beautiful view.

What’s Special About Jasper NP

Unfortunately, George and I only got a small taste of Jasper, the largest of NPs in the Canadian Rockies, as the town and most of the national park was closed in the wake of the devastating wildfires. I must come back here after it has had some time to recover.

Icefields Parkway: The Parkway begins in Banff, NP, and extends north to the town of Jasper through much of Jasper, NP. George and I were able to drive most of this section, but the road was closed just beyond the Columbia Icefield, so we didn’t have the opportunity to enjoy that northernmost breathtaking stretch. Next time.

Columbia Icefield: This is the largest reservoir of snow and ice in the Rockies. Boasting numerous glaciers, the Athabasca Glacier is the one which extends down closest to the Parkway. In fact, in the not-too-distant past, it extended beyond the Parkway. George and I decided to be tourists and join the Glacier Adventure Tour, which provides a great way to walk on a glacier – it is marketed as the most accessible in North America. And, to boot, you get to visit the Columbia Icefield Skywalk, a glass-bottomed platform a thousand feet above the Athabasca River.

Hiking and Mountain Biking: Jasper is a mecca for hikers and bikers. All of this was closed due to the wildfires, so another trip here is mandatory!

What’s Special About Yoho NP

Hiking: Yoho has three areas of particular hiking beauty, of which we enjoyed two.

Iceline Circuit: First, the trailheads are a short distance from Canada’s second highest waterfall, Takakkaw Falls, which is nothing short of spectacular. Next, the trail system offers rivers, lakes, and other waterfalls in a subalpine and alpine setting, with glorious mountain views.
Emerald Lake: Set below the President Mountains, the intense green color is a standout even among the many beautiful lakes of these Canadian Rockies. There are numerous trails here, similar to the Iceline trail system.
Lake O’Hara: We didn’t visit this area because access was too difficult to arrange. If you can score a seat on the bus or at its campground or lodge, you would be set for a terrific hiking experience, I’m told.

Scenic Drive: The Trans-Canada Highway is the only road traversing the Park, and it is a beautiful drive. Don’t miss the pull-off for Spiral Tunnels.

What’s Special About Glacier NP

Glacier is known for its deep valleys and steep mountain trails punctuated by numerous glaciers. It is home to Rogers Pass, a critical railway and highway link to connect BC with Alberta and the other Canadian provinces.

Hiking: Steep and dramatic. Hermit Trail reputed to be steepest in the Rockies. The Illecillewaet Campground area offers numerous hiking options, from easy to strenuous. George and I enjoyed several here.

Hemlock Grove Boardwalk: a very short trail through old-growth hemlock conveniently located along the highway.

Rogers Pass Discovery Centre: situated along the highway at the top of the pass, it is the only Parks Canada location in the park and worth a short visit, and travel back into history. There is a ranger-led hike up the Balu Trail offered weekly in summer.

What’s Special About Mount Revelstoke NP

First, do not confuse the national park, Mount Revelstoke, with the nearby ski area, Revelstoke Mountain Resort, located on a different mountain about 10 miles away.

Meadows in the Sky Parkway is the attraction, a 26 km road from base to the summit of Mount Revelstoke, one of very few NPs in North America to have such. The drive takes about 40 minutes without stops, with views that become more and more panoramic as you gain elevation, climbing the 16 switchbacks. The summit has several short trails, including one leading to the Historic Firetower, restored to its former glory.

Hiking: From the summit, there are several options besides the short trails. Parks Canada personnel recommended the trail to Miller, Eva and Jade Lakes. Especially recommended in August when wildflowers are in full bloom.

Wildflowers: This is the place. According to my National Geographic source, “Nowhere else in the mountains of western Canada can you step out of your car into subalpine meadows as richly floral as these.” I agree.

Giant Cedars Boardwalk: From a roadside pull-over off the TCH, a short trail among towering cedars. It offers a calm, soothing and quiet respite – the vibe felt to me like a forested sanctuary. Then, a tour bus arrived.

Lodging and Dining Options

Here’s What We Enjoyed:

Banff/Jasper: The town of Jasper was closed due to wildfires, so I’ll have to return for a visit there to share views on it. George and I chose not to stay in the town of Banff as it is far too crowded with tourists (and pricey) in summer, but we did have a few dinners there as well as in the village of Lake Louise where we stayed.

In Lake Louise, The Mountaineer Lodge offers a very good value – comfortable beds, clean rooms, hot breakfast and critically, a hot tub! If you want to splurge, we suggest The Post Hotel over the Chateau Lake Louise, which is expanding and under construction. We enjoyed very fine cocktails at the bar lounge at the Post, with a pianist providing soothing background music. (FYI, you are not allowed into the handsome bars at the Chateau unless you are a guest there, although we were able to sneak in during our March ski trip.)

As for dining in Lake Louise, everyone recommends Bill Peyto’s Cafe for very good food at a reasonable price, and we fully agree. We not only had a couple of mighty fine dinners there but chose to enjoy a more leisurely breakfast one morning. You could also splurge at the above-mentioned hotels which we might have done if our wives were along.

As for Banff, where we stayed in March for a week of skiing, we noted that lodging rates in were literally one-third of the August rates. Truly. We were very pleased with our stay back then at Brewster Mountain Lodge, a great value, and with Moose Hotels & Suites (especially its rooftop hot tubs with mountain views) for a bit more of a splurge. Dining in Banff, we had excellent dinners at The Grizzly House (recommended particularly in winter for its fondue if you have a group), Hello Sunshine Sushi and Shoku Izakaya for Japanese (especially the Miso Crème Brûlèe at the latter), and Anejo for margaritas, guacamole and tacos.

Yoho: The village of Lake Louise is so close to Yoho NP (15-20 minutes) that it offers viable lodging options. Very upscale lodges we did not stay at in Yoho include the Emerald Lake Lodge – where George and I enjoyed a good dinner with wonderful lake views – and Lake O’Hara Lodge where you must enter a lottery just to get a reservation. (I tried and failed.)

We stayed at Truffle Pigs Lodge and Bistro in Field (the only town in Yoho) having heard that this is considered the best value for lodging and dining. Indeed, we had an excellent meal and a comfortable, scenic room. It’s a fun place. Highly recommended.

Mount Revelstoke/Glacier: There is no town or lodging in Glacier. Revelstoke is the place to stay and dine if you’re in this neck of the woods. And since Revelstoke is an awesome ski mountain (highest lift-served, vertical drop in North America!), the town has many lodging and dining alternatives. We booked very late here because we had originally planned to stay in Jasper (which closed due to wildfires) and could not get a room at The Regent Hotel (recommended by locals). We recommend avoiding where we stayed, The Sandman (although, to its credit, it had a fine pool and hot tub).

We had much better luck with our dining in Revelstoke and would recommend: The Village Idiot for excellent, creative pizzas, good burgers and bar fare; Old School Eatery for upscale fare in a creatively renovated former schoolhouse; La Baguette for croissants, lattes and a range of breakfast items.

Daily Itinerary

Day 1: Flying to Calgary from Boston via Toronto; Arrive Lake Louise, Banff NP (Tuesday, August 6)

6:00-8:00 AM: Flight from Boston to Toronto
10:30 AM(EST)-12:45 PM(MT): Flight from Toronto to Calgary
1:00-6:00 PM: Pick up the rental car, drive to Lake Louise, and check into The Mountaineer Lodge.
Evening: Dinner at Bill Peyto’s Cafe

Day 2: Hiking the Plain of Six Glaciers/Lake Agnes Circuit (Wednesday, August 7)

7:00-9:00 AM: Breakfast at The Mountaineer Lodge and walk (5 minutes) to shuttle
9:00-10:00 AM: Catch shuttle to Lake Louise
10:00 AM-5:00 PM: Hike the Plain of Six Glaciers/Lake Agnes circuit. Lunch at Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse.
5:30-6:00 PM: Return on the shuttle bus and walk back to the hotel.
Evening: Dinner at Bill Peyto’s Cafe

Day 3: Via Ferrata on Mt. Norquay (Thursday, August 8)

8:00-10:00 AM: Late Breakfast at Bill Peyto’s Cafe.
10:00 AM-12:00 PM: Prep for the day, drive to Banff and then to Mt. Norquay.
12:00 PM-6:00 PM: Via Ferrata “The Alpinist” program. Great views from the Cliffhouse Bistro.
Evening: Dinner in Banff at The Grizzly and walk around town.

Day 4: Moraine Lake – Larch Valley/Sentinel Pass/Paradise Valley Hike (Friday, August 9)

6:00-7:00 AM: Check out and drive to the shuttle bus to Moraine Lake.
8:00 AM-5:00 PM: Hike one-way on the Larch Valley/Sentinel Pass/ Paradise Valley route.
5:00-6:30 PM: Shuttle back, drive to the town of Field in Yoho, and check in to Truffle Pigs Bistro and Lodge
Evening: Dinner at Truffle Pigs Bistro.

Day 5: Drive the Icefield Parkway toward Jasper NP (Saturday, August 10)

7:00-8:00 AM: Grab breakfast and drive to the start of Icefield Parkway
8:00-11:30 AM: Drive Icefield Parkway to Columbia Icefield in Jasper NP, stopping at Peyto Lake, Bow Lake and other scenic spots.
11:30 AM-4:00 PM: Take the Columbia Icefield Adventure Tour to the Athabasca Glacier (walk on it), explore the Columbia Icefield Skywalk, and have a quick lunch.
4:00-6:00 PM: Drive back down Icefield Parkway and return to the Truffle Pigs
Evening: A quick (15 min) drive to Emerald Lake Lodge for dinner in the Mount Burgess Dining Room.

Day 6: Hike the Iceline/Celeste Lake Circuit (Sunday, August 11)

7:00-8:30 AM: Check out and drive to the trailhead (30 min).
8:30-9:30 AM: Hike ½ mile to Takakkaw Falls and back to the trailhead.
9:30 AM-4:00 PM: Hike the Iceline/Celeste Lake Circuit;
3:30-7:30 PM: Drive to Revelstoke (2 hrs.).
Evening: Check into The Sandman and pizza at The Village Idiot.

Day 7: Hiking the Summit Trails at Mount Revelstoke (Monday, August 12)

7:00-9:00 AM: Breakfast at La Baguette, and drive to the summit of Mount Revelstoke (40 min)
9:00 AM-3:00 PM: Hike two short summit trails (30 min): Fire Lookout Trail and Parapets Trail, and the longer trail, Miller and Eva Lakes (4 hours).
Evening: Dinner at Olde School Eatery. Ice cream at The Sugar Shack.

Day 8: Hiking Glacier (Canada) NP (Tuesday, August 13)

7:00-9:00 AM: Breakfast at La Baguette; drive to Illecillewaet area of Glacier (30 min)
9:00 AM-2:00 PM: Hike the 1885 Trail, Great Glacier Trail and Meeting of the Waters Trail.
2:00-3:30 PM: Visit the Hemlock Grove Boardwalk (in Glacier NP) and the Giant Cedars Boardwalk (in Mount Revelstoke NP); drive back to hotel.
Evening: cocktails at Monashee Spirits Distillery and awesome burgers on the patio of The Village Idiot

Day 9: Last Day – A Potpourri of Experiences (Wednesday, August 14)

7:00-9:00 AM: Check out and drive to the summit of Mount Revelstoke (40 min)
9:00 AM-12:00 PM: Drive to Icefields Parkway and up to Bow Lake.
12:00-4:00 PM: Hike to Bow Glacier Falls.
4:00-8:30 PM: Drive to Banff (1 hr.), have a leisurely soak in the Banff Hot Springs, explore the town and dinner at Shoku Izakaya.
8:30-10:30 PM: Drive to Calgary Airport; return the rental car. Catch 11:55 PM redeye flight to Toronto and morning flight to Boston.

Resources:

Trail Maps: For day hiking in national parks, I find most useful the National Geographic’s series of Trails Illustrated Topographic Maps. I always have it with me in my daypack.

General References: Best advice for me on planning trips to national parks has come from two series: Lonely Planet and Moon Guides. For trips in Canada, I also rely on National Geographic’s Guide to National Parks of Canada.