PEI is the smallest of Canada’s provinces at app.125 miles long by 35 miles wide. Prince Edward Island National Park is a half-hour drive from Charlottetown and its airport. The Park spans a spectacular stretch of coastline along the north shore and offers sand dunes and beaches, salt marshes and Acadian Forest.
There are three segments of the Park: Greenwich to the east, Cavendish to the west, with Brackley-Dalvay in between. Greenwich is the least-visited jewel; Brackley has the most popular beaches, and Cavendish is (in)famous as the home of author L.H. Montgomery and inspiration for her Anne of Green Gables.
Our Experience
Accessing PEI from Nova Scotia (Cape Breton), the 75-minute ferry ride across the Northumberland Strait to PEI was relaxing and picturesque – a beautiful, sunny day with very fine views – and it was a quick drive to the northeast part of the island where we were staying, as we wanted to be closer to the Greenwich and Brackley segments. We chose to skip Cavendish and its Green Gables.
Greenwich Trails
The hikes are all short and flat in the Greenwich segment but offer a variety of terrain and waterfront. We enjoyed all three trails, particularly the Greenwich Dunes Trail (3 miles). It led us through forest to the world’s longest floating boardwalk across a salt marsh, terminating at an expansive beach with unusual parabolic sand dune formation. (The shape is unusual and rare, I understand, but they look to me like any dune.)
Brackley-Dalvey Trails
Our exploration of the Brackley-Dalvay segment was impacted by heavy rain and 30mph winds. We did have the opportunity to tour Dalvay-by-the-Sea, a National Historic Site and mansion built in 1895 by the former president of Standard Oil.
This segment is mainly known for its beaches of soft white sand that stretch forever – probably a great summertime spot but not a place we would linger in a windy downpour. So, we decided to cut bait and head to the quaint, small city of Charlottetown – and it’s worth an afternoon, no more — before our evening flight back to Toronto.
Cavendish-North Rustico Trails
Though we chose not to explore this section, the trails offer magnificent views of the Gulf of St. Lawrence along red sandstone cliffs and were the inspiration for L.M. Montgomery’s Anne of Green Gables.
Highlight for Foodies
I should call out the Inn at Bay Fortune located about 25 minutes from the Greenwich segment of the park, because it is a property worth your stay. We appreciated an excellent two nights there and experienced its signature Fireworks Feast. The Inn maintain its own on-site farm, giving new meaning to “farm-to-table”. Owned and operated by Michael Smith, the renowned Canadian chef and cookbook author, the Feast is a 5-hour, outdoor/indoor, multi-course extravaganza. It includes a tour of the farm and fields, which is fascinating – and I’m not a foodie or a farm guy – and a terrific culinary experience. Simply not to be missed.
Prince Edward Island may be the smallest province, but it packs a big punch when it comes to natural beauty. With expansive beaches, sand dunes and easy trails for all forms of activity, it’s Canada’s playground. I highly recommend a visit or two in your travels.
Get out there and carpe diem!
